Brunch with Mom at Cooks County

Cooks County

8009 Beverly Blvd

Los Angeles, CA 90048

310-653-8009

Last Saturday Mom and I were frantically shopping for hours all over town to buy something to wear for a big event that evening, to which in the end I wore something from my own closet. Sigh. Wasted time I will never get back. Well, not really true. I was shopping with Mom, which is fun (she was a trooper this trip) and we managed brunch perfection at newcomer Cooks County. The visit was inspired by Eater LA's Hottest New Brunch Spots Winter 2011. Located at the corner of Beverly and Fairfax in the old Mimosa/Bistro LQ space, Cooks County is brought to us by Claudio and Adria Blotta from Barbrix and cheffed by Daniel Mattern and Roxanna Jullapat, formerly of Ammo.  Now that's a pedigree worthy of Westminster.

I've been brunching a lot this year. Above is the main menu. Below is the top bit, closer up.

And below is the side wrap of the menu, pastries and a little whatnot.

Mom and I treated ourselves to some post-shopping pre-napping Turley Juvenile zin, having just visited Turley on our most recent wine tasting trip to Paso Robles. I don't remember liking it this much when we were at the tasting room. My taste buds might have been suffering that day a little from previously tasting the complex reds at Lone Madrone. The Juvenile zin was wonderful Saturday with my meal.

At the rec of the waiter, I ordered the fried eggs with harissa, garbanzos, olives, yogurt and grilled olive bread. The garbanzos were nicely roasted, kind of like I roast them at home for a cocktail snack. The harissa was not as spicy as I had hoped it to be, but the effect of all the flavors together was similar to the infamous chicken recipe but instead with the ubiquitous breakfast protein. I can easily see recreating this at home (I might find a way to sneak in some smoked paprika). On Chopped recently (which I watch obsessively, even reruns, which drives the spousal unit nuts), one of the judges commented that the grilled bread on one plate was gratuitous and not really connected to the dish (probably that bitch Alex Guarnaschelli).  I found the grilled bread on this plate the perfect food to mouth vehicle for my eggs, harissa and yogurt. I think I licked the plate.

I wish there was more bar seating. This seems almost gratuitous. There are four seats. People can sit there and be fed. But it doesn't really have the bar feel that I love. I clearly need to come in and try it out my damn self.

Mom ate the duck egg crostone, with housemade pancetta, chicory and Parmesan. This picture makes my mouth water. Mom, that morning you said you had no idea what a crostone is, well please to click link to the left. She described it to Claudia later that day as toad-in-the-hole with pancetta, bitter greens and parm. Again, plate lickable.

The build out is gorgeous, rustic but polished. Not the most original design, but done really well. There were several choices on the wine-by-the-glass list that tempted me, and that's a pleasant oddity. The next step is a visit for dinner.

post script: I secretly love Alex Guarnaschelli and all her weird faces.